Tag Archives: Robin Moyer Chung

Westport Arts Scene, Part 3: Finding — And Losing — A Home

Our town’s thriving visual arts scene includes 2 major institutions: MoCA|CT, and the Artists Collective of Westport.

How did they get there?

In part 3 of this 4-part series, “06880” culture correspondent Robin Moyer Chung explores the history. Click here to read her first story. Click here for the second piece.

After the Westport Arts Center became MoCA\CT, many members felt abandoned by the very board cobbled together to support them.

They felt that their Riverside Avenue gallery had been exchanged for a grander “regional culture center,” straddling the Norwalk border.

One member says, “All of us were shocked and upset by the relatively sudden decision by the Westport Arts Center, after 50 years, to divorce themselves from the very artists who were the heart and soul of that organization from day one in 1969.”

Early Westport Arts Center logo.

Being kicked out of their gallery, however, was not new to the WAC.

In the early 1980s, fewer students in Westport rendered unnecessary the Greens Farms Elementary School building. WAC paid $1 a year for the space.

In exchange, WAC paid for its upkeep.

A WAC board member at that time recalls, “The town only took care of the roof in that building. Everything else was our responsibility. So we had to deal with a rather ancient boiler. We painted walls and we did everything to make it look nice.”

The WAC rented classrooms to artists as affordable studio spaces, at $80-100 a month. Members would wander to other studios to spark ideas and share techniques.

Artist Sue Sharp, in her Westport Arts Center studio.

One of the first artists to rent space was Herz Emanuel. His sculptures and drawings are on display at the Smithsonian American Art Museum, Whitney, an the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

He worked in the same space that — more than 25 years earlier — had been his son Adam’s 3rd grade classroom.

Other artists at the WAC included Howard Munce and Miggs Burroughs.

Sculptor Herz Emanuel, at work in his studio.

Pianist Heida Hermanns donated about $500,000, to turn the gymnasium into a 200-seat performing arts space for the Theatre Artists Workshop, and symphonies and orchestras. Named Artur Holde Hall, after her husband, and designed by architect Arthur Rothenberg, it was also used for visual arts exhibitions.

Jason Robards read “Long Day’s Journey into Night,” surrounded by works by Paul Cadmus, the controversial Weston artist whose works are now in the collections of the Whitney, Met and many more institutions.

Artur Holde Hall, as exhibition space.

The WAC was funded by studio rentals, ticket sales, and donations.

Best of all, the school superintendent — brightly, warmly, with a signed agreement — guaranteed their lease through 1999.

In 1992, executive director William “Clancy” Thompson told the New York Times, “I have never seen a model like it. I know of theater companies and ballet companies sharing facilities, but not a community of artists such as this, such fine performance space in a town with the wisdom to make the building available. It’s’ an unusual combination of factors, filled with promise.”

The center thrived.

Westport Arts Center, by a resident illustrator.

Until 1996 when the same superintendent broke the lease, and demanded that WAC compliantly leave the premises. The town schools were now packed with students.

Instead of building another school, officials decided to renovate this one.

Greens Farms School, as the Westport Arts Center.

Greens Farms School had been WAC’s home for almost 20 years.

However some parents — many of them new to Westport — were upset that  artists were populating school space that could belong to their children.

A then-WAC board member says, “They thought the Arts Center was full of frivolous housewives with all this money to burn, who wanted to become painters so they could rent from us.”

In fact, some of those “frivolous housewives” included Anne Chernow, a lithographer with works at the Met, and artists like Marianne Rothballer and Judy Kamerschen, well noted for their work in juried exhibits and shows.

Still, according to an accomplished WAC member, “We became pariahs. It was really horrible. People would come to exhibitions and grab anybody they realized was part of the board or an artist and tell us, you know, you’re not very nice people.”

How did the artists respond to the loss of their home? That’s part 4 of this series. Much of this information comes from a WAC film, produced by Katie Hacala and 4th Row Films.

Westport Arts Scene: Drawing Out The Back Story

Westport’s arts scene is robust. And it has been, for over a century.

Right now the 2 major visual arts players are MoCA\CT, and the Artists Collective of Westport.

In this first of a 4-part series, “06880” culture correspondent Robin Moyer Chung explores how we got here.

Sources asked for anonymity, to describe sensitive issues.

The management of any institution is rife with roadblocks. And in an institution for the arts, financial realities can sometimes guide, or perhaps overwhelm, artistic missions.

Which brings us to the highly anticipated — and controversial — 2019 opening of MoCA Westport (now MoCA\CT).

As early as the 1920’s, Westport’s arts scene drew attention. In 1929 a newspaper called this “the home of the most distinctive arts community in the world.” (Um … Rome? Paris?)

James Earle Fraser was one of Westport’s earliest, and best known, artists. He designed the buffalo nickel, the “End of the Trail” sculpture of a Native American slumped over a tired horse, and the Theodore Roosevelt statue at the Museum of Natural History.

In 1934 the town of Westport provided $3,000 ($75,000 today), to kick off the Westport- Weston Arts Council (WWAC). The goal was to encourage and nurture the burgeoning arts scene, including writers, actors, fine artists, cartoonists, illustrators, musicians and more.

WWAC thrived for decades, in a variety of venues. In 1983 it found a physical home in what had been Greens Farms Elementary School. After years of declining birthrates, it and 2 other elementary schools were closed.

The WWAC leased the building from the town, for $1 a year. They changed their name to the Westport Arts Center (WAC). They rented the school’s classrooms at affordable rates, as studios for members.

The WAC also built an exhibition space for shows and performances, in the former gymnasium. In return, they were responsible for the building’s maintenance and upkeep.

From 1983 through 1998, this was the Westport Arts Center.

Gradually, the school population rebounded. In the late 1990s, town officials decided the building would revert back to a school.

They broke the WAC’s lease, leaving members without economical studio options or dedicated exhibition space.

After a years-long search the WAC landed in a brightly renovated Riverside Avenue gallery, not far from the Post Road. They sponsored exhibits from members and other artists around Connecticut, and offered arts education for youngsters.

The long, narrow space was not adequate, however. Offices were cramped, and it could not accommodate large pieces.

Westport Arts Center, on Riverside Avenue.

Around 2018, the executive director of the WAC and supporting board members decided they needed a larger, more suitable location. After examining the Baron’s property on Compo Road South, and Martha Stewart’s former television production facility, they chose the latter.

A press release gushed, “Thanks to 50 years of connecting an entire community around a love of the arts, it will open its new doors at 19 Newtown Turnpike under an evolved identity and mission.”

A town official added, “We are excited to see the Arts Center expand to meet the creative demands of our active, artistic town … the new campus will be a regional cultural destination, drawing audiences to Westport from all over Connecticut, Westchester County and New York City.”

Mo\CA, at 19 Newtown Turnpike.

WAC member sources for this article say they were not made aware of either the search, the new name or the new mission — which mentioned a local audience but not local artists.

Nor did it say that the building is primarily in Norwalk, with most taxes paid to that city.

Instead, members learned the news from the press release.

What happened next? That’s in Part 2 of this series.

(“06880” regularly covers Westport’s arts scene — and the town’s history. If you enjoy stories like this, please click here to support our work. Thank you!)

“06880” Podcast: Robin Moyer Chung

This is Robin Moyer Chung’s second time on our “06880” podcast.

I interviewed her a couple of years ago, as editor of Westport Lifestyle magazine.

Now she’s back — as “06880”‘s culture correspondent.

The other day, we chatted on the Westport Library stage about all things cultural. The Westport Country Playhouse, Mo\CA, Staples Players — you name it, Robin knows it.

We talked too about our reputation as an “arts town.” Is it still true? Where do all the new arrivals fit in? What’s ahead?

Click here or below, for our very cultured conversation.

Ana Gasteyer’s “Sugar & Booze”

“06880” culture correspondent Robin Moyer Chung reports:

Ana Gasteyer rocked the Westport Country Playhouse Monday night.

Her show “Sugar & Booze” — based on her holiday album of the same name — is touted as “an uproarious homage to Christmas albums of old” by Billboard.

The comedian, musician and actor — best known for her iconic send-ups of Martha Steward and Celine Dion on “Saturday Night Live” — interspersed comedy (“Hello Westport! … Did I pronounce that correctly?”) and songs she pointedly assures the audience are “seasonal secular songs with Santa.”

She did it hot on the heels of the “SNL: The Anniversary Special” (in which she revisited her famous characters), and the 20th anniversary of “Wicked” (in which she played Elphaba on Broadway).

As a treat, she threw into the song mix her restrained and passionate rendition of “Defying Gravity.”

Ana Gasteyer (Photo/Shervin Lainez) 

It was an exuberant performance tempered by deadpan comic delivery, her red sequin shirt sparkling in the footlights like a holiday ornament, accompanied by 8 band members and her violin.

A fun bit: Halfway through the show the bandleader wandered into the audience with a bag of “white elephant” gifts (things Ana had ostensibly dragged out of her closet and couldn’t wait to get rid of).

To 3 excited winners — judged by the ridiculousness of their holiday attire — he gifted useless things like a green sparkly fringe sweater.

Like chocolate chips in the larger cookie of the Westport Country Playhouse season (Martha Stewart reference — get it?), these one-night shows mixed into larger ones offer glimpses of stunning, sometimes legendary talent. They include Mandy Patinkin who performed earlier this month

The show was, as her bare-breasted kitchen vixen once said, “a good thing.”

(“06880” covers Westport’s cultural scene — and much, much more. We rely on reader support to do it all. Please click here to make a tax-deductible contribution. Thank you!)

“Enough Already”: MoCA’s Women Artist Exhibit Is Ebullient, Celebratory, Thought-Provoking

“06880” culture correspondent Robin Moyer Chung says:

MoCA\CT’s latest exhibit, “Enough Already: Women Artists from the Sara M. and Michelle Vance Waddell Collection,” composed of highlights from the collection of 2 women from Cincinnati, is described as “politically charged.”

I don’t see it that way.

Perhaps because I arrived carrying the weight of a 4-hour antisemitism presentation, or perhaps because every day’s cursory review of the news bristles with negative rhetoric vying for our trepidation.

Instead, it felt exuberant. If the ebullient mood at the opening is any indication, I’m not the only one who feels this way.

Admiring “Picnic on Wine,” by Sandy Skoglund, at MoCA\CT.

On the wall in the last room of the exhibit is a question for viewers: “What have you had enough of?”

Scrawled on numerous papers are the words “patriarchy,” “politics,” “judgment.” On one paper is written: “Having to make a delicious dinner EVERY. DAMN. NIGHT OF MY LIFE.”

First, solidarity. Second, this struck me as an apt description of this exhibit. It’s less about “enough already,” and more about “I can make a delicious meal every night.”

There are things we have to do, everyday life stuff like cooking dinner every night. We can (well, many of us can) choose to make it delicious or not. Artists can choose to illustrate their everyday life as stuff worth living, or not. In this case, many chose the former.

When they embraced mundane challenges of womanhood, I saw power, one that is independent of beauty, money or influence.

And I think that’s the point. The overarching politicality of being a woman has been successfully addressed in art, and now women are free to granulize their lives without fear (or care) of denigration.

MAGE: S’manga, Amsterdam, 2016, 2016 © Zanele Muholi. Courtesy of the artist and Yancey Richardson, New York.

Whether it’s their bodies, their illnesses or their sexualization, they own and appreciate what belongs exclusively to them as individuals. They’re owning the male narrative, and re-shaping it.

Though the title alludes to exasperation, named after a neon sign by Deborah Kass, I found the exhibit, with a few violent exceptions, more celebratory than defiant. Kass’s sign itself is colorful and flamboyant, belying frustration and signaling optimistic decisiveness.

One of the most dynamic pieces is a large photo of a nude female statue raising her left arm, a scar where her left breast used to be (“Intra-Venus.” Marina Vargas, 2021).

She may be raising her arm to offer a full view of her mastectomy, but it seems more an expression of jubilance; she’s a breast cancer survivor, not a woman with a perceived imperfection.

A small marble stool (“Survival Series, 1983-1985,” Jenny Holzer) includes an inscription “It is in your self-interest to find a way to be very tender.” Motherly, womanly, advice for children and loved ones, fingers crossed they’ll follow it. Yet the weight and immobility of the marble indicates its substance — this is spelled out in a nurturing tone for palatability, but its hardcore prophetic, as is most delicately relayed motherly advice.

The Vance Wadells began purchasing these works 20 years ago, intentionally mixing acclaimed artists (Cindy Sherman, Kiki Smith, Yoko Ono) with emerging artists to amplify lesser known voices.

Ironically, Yoko Ono’s felt like the least impactful work (“Touch Me,” 2008) — a primed canvas, 12 x 12, with a cross section cut in the center. Its message is either histrionically obvious or lost on me.

Important question, though. What have you had enough of, and what can you do with that energy?

(The exhibit runs through February 15. It includes nudity and violence. Click here for more information.)

(“06880” covers the arts scene in Westport, in all shapes and forms. If you enjoy this — or anything else in our hyper-local blog — please click here to support our work. Thank you!)

Playhouse’s “Earnest”: Victorian Hilarity, For The 21st Century

After nearly a century, the Westport Country Playhouse is finally presenting “The Importance of Being Earnest.” “06880” culture correspondent Robin Moyer Chung offers her insights on the classic play:

It’s widely hailed as Oscar Wilde’s masterpiece, officially subtitled “a trivial comedy for serious people,” written while he was on trial for homosexuality. Weeks into its run he was sent to prison for 2 years of hard labor.

Three years after his sentence ended, he died penniless in a Paris hotel, his last words being, “This wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. Either it goes or I do.” He was 46 years old.

Which may be the least funny way to introduce the comedy “The Importance of Being Earnest” at the Westport Country Playhouse, especially because the season is designed to inspire and uplift.

Kristen Hahn, Mark Silence, and Katy Tang.

The show centers around 2 wealthy bachelors who fall quickly and madly in love with 2 young — very young — women who both know in the deepest recesses of their callow hearts they could never consider marrying a man who isn’t named Earnest.

Victorian hilarity ensues.

Because the play is written for an audience from the turn of the century (the last century), newer audience-goers may find it a bit lengthy.

However, it’s an important play to see. And the Playhouse production, directed by Melissa Rain Anderson, is as taut as a 125-year-old comedy can be, with sprightly direction and good pacing.

Visually it’s a fun, frothy swirl of costumes (Annie Le), and sets “Like an illustrated pop book come to life,” artistic director Mark Shanahan aptly states of James Fenton’s design of the interior of a Victorian mansion.

An intricate set, at the Westport Country Playhouse.

Shanahan says, “Melissa Rain Anderson has worked at theaters all around the country. When I asked her if she would be interested, she said ‘It’s on my bucket list.’”

It was also on Westport’s bucket list as, crazily, this is the first time the show has played on WCP’s stage in its 95-year history.

Eagle-eyed onlookers may notice that the costumes are set in Edwardian times, allowing the costume designer a sleeker cut to the clothing. I take no umbrage in that, because I loved the dresses and I wouldn’t know the difference. If the inching to a more “modern” or “5 or 6 years later” time period offends you, then you know an enormous amount about history and theater and I hope that brings you a bit of solace.

When Le was designing her frocks and suits, she considered things other than their obvious theatricality. How will this dress look when twirling beneath rose petals? What habit of the wearer might inform the costume — something to twiddle? To touch?

Michael Raver and Anthony Michael Martinez. (All photos/Carol Rosegg)

Aside from the costumes, some of my favorite parts are when John Worthing carefully but courageously touches Gwendolyn’s curl. The witty barbs traded among Algernon and John in the first act, along with Lady Bracknell’s exquisite societal reasoning. And in Gwendolyn and Cicely’s delightful dialogue at the beginning of Act 2.

It’s these singular details which make the show fresh and contemporarily entertaining to modern theatergoers.

(Conversely, one of my less favorite things is Cicily’s voice. It’s a choice.)

There’s no denying the cast is having a blast onstage. As early as the first read, cast members were clapping and laughing along. Shanahan recalls, “it was a rare experience!”

As if to prove this, as I left WCP the cast was having lunch on the patio, laughing and chatting as though they were on the very un-Victorian Church Lane during happy hour.

(“The Importance of Being Earnest” runs through November 15. Click here for tickets, and more information.

(Robin Moyer Chung covers culture — just part of our hyper-local, 24/7/365 blog. If you enjoy what we do, please click here to support our work. Thank you!)

Roundup: Sailing School, Lynda Bluestein, James Comey …

Though the Parks & Recreation Department has recommended that current Longshore Sailing School operator Jane Pimentel’s lease with the town be extended another 10 years, the Board of Finance last night asked for more time.

And for questions to be answered.

Heidi McGee and Jeff Manchester — Westporters who are involved in competing bids — challenged the transparency of the process, along with the low $5,000 rent proposed. She also said she would make a Freedom of Information Act request about the bid.

After much discussion, including remarks endorsing the current operators, Parks & Rec director Jen Fava’s request was tabled until the next Board of Finance meeting.

Longshore Sailing School. (Photo/Stefen Turner)

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Lynda Bluestein has begun her final journey.

The longtime Westport resident and active Unitarian Universalist Congregation in Westport member left her Black Rock home yesterday.

News12 Connecticut reports that her husband Paul drove her to Vermont. Last year, she won a lawsuit to allow her — despite being a non-resident — to use the state’s medical aid in dying statute.

Lynda suffers from ovarian and fallopian tube cancer. Her condition deteriorated rapidly this week, News12 says. She was carried out of her home by her son Jake Shannon, and twin granddaughters.

Bluestein’s legacy will live on in many ways. She has been a longtime voice against gun violence. She has advocated for a Connecticut medical aid in dying law.

And last year, she helped place wind phones — disconnected telephones that allow loved ones and friends to “call” people who have died — throughout the area.

A ceremony at the Westport Library — the first such indoor space for a wind phone in the world — drew dozens of friends and admirers.

Click here for the full, loving report from News12’s Mark Sudol.

Lynda Bluestein, during yesterday’s News12 interview.

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In November, “06880” reported that James Comey’s new book will be published in May.

The murder mystery novel from the former FBI director — and also former Westport resident — is about a “make-believe hedge fund called Saugatuck Associates, billed as the world’s largest.”

Aspiring authors are told to “write about what you know.”

Hmmmm … let’s see ,,,  well, Comey was general counsel of Westport-based Bridgewater Associates.

Oh, yeah. The book’s title is “Westport.”

The cover has just been released. Look familiar?

If Comey has a book-signing here, we’ll let you know.

Perhaps at Barnes & Noble.

Or Bridgewater. (Hat tips: Sean McGee, Dick Lowenstein)

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Robin Moyer Chung sends this message to “06880” readers:

“As the editor of Westport Lifestyle magazine for the past 5 years, I’ve been fortunate to pen so many fascinating features of Westport and its residents.

“Every time I left an interview I couldn’t wait to tell the story (well, with one exception). I’d sit down at my laptop and write the first sentence: ‘This will blow your mind.’ ‘What she’s doing is amazing.’ ‘This guy is unbelievable.’

“Then I’d stop and re-examine the superlative. How can I best convey how amazing this person or story is without a ham-handed declaration of adoration?

“For 5 years I’ve loved this challenge. I’ve loved discovering and writing about the outstanding contributions of those who do so quietly and without seeking fanfare. Of those who sculpt our unique landscape of commerce, design, and entertainment. Of those who speak up, dress up, act out, and sing out loud.

“Regretfully, this January 2024 issue is my last one.

“I look forward to the next chapter of Westport Lifestyle, and hope it continues to reflect the dazzling community in which it lives.

“Thank you all! It’s been fabulous!”

Robin Moyer Chung

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The Westport Inn is gone.

A new boutique hotel — owned by the same company that runs the famed Delamar properties in Southport and Greenwich, along with La Plage restaurant and the soon-to-be-renovated Inn at Longshore — is rising in its place.

The target date is this fall.

Construction work on the new Delamar hotel.

Meanwhile, eBay is offering a remnant of the previous incarnation of the Westport Inn: this key from the original “New Englander Motor Hotel.”

Postage may no longer be “guaranteed.”

(Photos/JD Dworkow)

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Westport Police made no custodial arrests between December 27 and January 3.

In the same period, they issued these citations:

  • Traveling unreasonably fast: 7 citations
  • Failure to obey traffic control signals: 6
  • Improper use of markers: 6
  • Operating an unregistered motor vehicle: 5
  • Operating a motor vehicle without a license: 4
  • Operating a motor vehicle without minimum insurance: 3
  • Evading responsibility: 2
  • Failure to obey a stop sign: 2
  • Larceny: 1
  • Breach of peace: 1
  • Speeding: 1
  • Failure to yield right of way: 1
  • Failure to drive to the right: 1
  • Failure to insure a motor vehicle: 1
  • Failure to register a commercial vehicle: 1
  • Possession of an abandoned marker: 1

It’s no laughing matter: You can’t put an abandoned license plate on your car.

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He’s 2 years away from getting his driver’s license.

But 14-year-old Vivek Kanthan is a world junior kart racing champion.

Currently competing in Europe, he’ll be at the Westport Library this Sunday (January 7, 2 p.m.), for a “Motorsports 101” presentation.

The teenage racer will discuss his journey, and answer questions.

Vivek Kanthan, with his trophies.

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Ken Runkel — whose works are showcased regularly in “06880”‘s Saturday online art gallery — is the Westport Book Shop’s guest exhibitor this month.

He describes himself as “a digital photographer, photoshop artist, and AI explorer with an unusual imagination, and sometimes twisted sense of humor.”  His work ranges from nature, landscapes and waterscapes to abstracts and surrealistic images.

Runkel spent 4 decades in advertising, corporate identity development and brand consulting with major international firms serving Fortune 100 clients worldwide.  

After retiring in 2017 he focused on digital photography, and digital post-production editing. He now explores the power of artificial intelligence, and how it can expand visual creativity.

A reception is set for January 17 (6 to 7:30 p.m.). RSVP by phone (203-349-5141) or email (bookshop@westportbooksaleventures.org).

All work on display is available for purchase.

Ken Runkel and his art, at the Westport Book Shop.

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Sure, it’s New Year’s.

But flowers are blooming. Susan Leone spotted these, for today’s “Westport … Naturally” feature.

(Photo/Susan Leone)

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And finally … today was the birthdate, in 1838, of Tom Thumb. Born with dwarfism, he became a world-famous performer under the direction of P.T. Barnum.

Local connection: Tom Thumb (Charles Sherwood Stratton) was born in Bridgeport. After he died of a stroke at 45, Barnum placed a life-sized statue at his gravesite, Mountain Grove Cemetery in Bridgeport. His wife, Lavinia Warren, died more than 35 years later, and is buried next to him.

(Where else but “06880” can you read about old and new hotels, kart racing and digital art — all in the same place? If you appreciate this hyper-local blog, please click here to support it. Thank you!)

“06880” Podcast: Robin Moyer Chung

Is there a “Westport lifestyle”?

If anyone knows, it’s Robin Moyer Chung. She’s the editor of Westport Lifestyle magazine.

The other day, she joined the “06880” podcast. We chatted about that intriguing subject; the Westport few people ever see; the ins and outs of publishing, and much more.

Click below to listen to our conversation — and to learn a lot more about the lifestyles (and lives) of our friends and neighbors.

100 Cows

Alert “06880” reader Robin Moyer Chung is the editor/writer for Westport Lifestyle magazine, and a lyricist, book writer and blogger. Her musical, “The Top Job,” is produced around the world.

She and her family recently had a profound adventure. She writes:

Crossing Thresholds is an organization that works with local leaders to create 3 schools in the Kibera slum in Nairobi, Kenya, and a high school north of the city. They also organize trips to educate volunteers, who build and maintain these schools and interact with the students.

A school in Kibera.

I was ambivalent about writing about our trip. I knew people might accuse me of virtue-signaling, slum tourism, or voluntourism. But I’m okay with that. Call it whatever you’d like, just please keep reading. These are stories that need to be told no matter how we label them.

My only real hesitation was traveling halfway around the world for philanthropic purposes instead of focusing on vicinal needs. But a story about the Masai tribe reminded me that we’re all citizens of the world, and geography should not dictate our charity.

Robin Chung, reaching out in Kibera.

Kibera is roughly the size of Central Park, yet home to an estimated 800,000 to 1.5 million disenfranchised nationals. The government doesn’t “recognize” this rancid bit of land: they provide no electricity, water, sewage or police protection for residents.

Watching my children follow an armed guard down an uneven alley, cautiously stepping over rivulets of trash and sewage, brought the inhumane conditions into sharp focus. I thought images in movies and magazines had inured me to slums; I was wrong. The real brutality of poverty is a slap in the face.

Kibera, Kenya.

Yet within these hellish few miles, punctured with disappointment, clogged with desperation for survival, flickers an inexplicable hope. What tinders this hope is beyond Western reason. But there it is.

As a group we painted classrooms, scrubbed floors, carried firewall bricks, managed art projects, taught students games, and surrounded ourselves with dozens of children who craved our attention and affection. Every evening we returned to the hotel spent, hot and dusty.

Connecting halfway across the world: Robin’s son True.

Visiting a home in which these children live is an important part of the trip, to understand how poverty informs their lives and development. My oldest son requested that, after the visit, I not deliver a parental soliloquy about how lucky we are relative to these Kenyans. How he intuited my plan, I have no idea. But I relented.

This home is the size of 2 parking spots, typical for families of 7 or more. We crammed in. The renter, a woman, held her infant and told us she has 3 more children, but no husband.

Her home was full, with only a sofa nailed from wood planks, a chipped coffee table, and one mattress. Thin floral sheets hung from the ceiling and covered the sofa, masking the rusting metal walls and cheap wood.

Her “kitchen” was a brazier, a pot, and a few plastic dishes on a shelf. When she has money she makes gruel of flour. water and maybe a few vegetables. When she doesn’t have money, they don’t eat.

The dusty town.

It’s not unusual for a single mother to pour alcohol into her baby’s bottle so they sleep all day. Then the mother leaves home to find day work. If she works she can buy food; they may both survive. If she doesn’t, mother and child starve. Statistically, girls sell their bodies at age 14 to earn money.

We left the home quietly, shaken by her life and surroundings. No motherly monologue necessary.

But like I said, they have hope. They believe, despite living among dunes of rotting trash, that life will uptick. Even in the filthiest reaches of the slum, residents keep their clothes clean and fix their hair. They smile, greet us with Christian blessings and name their children Grace, Joy, and Sunshine.

Robin’s son Ty, and friends.

Slum residents are primarily descendants of Kenya’s many tribes. One of the largest is the Masai. Carter related a story of his friend Shani Yusef, a tribe elder:

Masai are famously resistant to modernization. Many live on earth too worn to yield significant vegetation. They work hard, beading jewelry and carving sculpture for tourists while raising herds of thin cows which are their currency.

Given their scant finances and isolation, Shani is one of the few Masai who has access to international news. On September 11, 2001, he was horrified to learn of the terrorist attack on the World Trade Center in New York City, a place he had only read about.

Shani gathered the Masai elders. After a few days of meetings, to help the people in a city few of them had heard of and none of them had seen, they decided to donate 100 of their cows, or roughly 30% of their wealth.

One hundred cows.