Tag Archives: Elvira’s Deli

[OPINION] Old Mill Grocery: Embracing History, Adapting To Future

As “06880” reported Sunday, Romanacci will not renew its lease at Old Mill Grocery & Deli.

After 3 years they’re concentrating on their other restaurants, including a new one in Darien. 

Several “06880” commenters questioned whether any operator can succeed at the 107-year-old beach neighborhood location. 

Jim Hood and Ian Warburg say they can. 

As 2 of the principals of Soundview Empowerment Alliance — the owners of the property — they write:

There has been a lot of thoughtful discussion since Dan’s post about the transition at Old Mill Grocery & Deli. We thought it might be helpful to add a little history and context, particularly around the question of whether a business can succeed at 222 Hillspoint Road.

We believe it can, and the history gives us good reason to feel that way.

Elvira’s was profitable for more than 2 decades. It supported Stacy and Nick, their family and employees, and helped them build meaningful equity in the property.

When they sold in 2019, it wasn’t because the business had failed. They were ready to retire after many years of extraordinarily hard work.

Nicky and Stacey Yiovanakos at their familiar spot. Under their ownership, Elvira’s was profitable.

Romanacci has also been profitable at Old Mill.

Their decision to move on doesn’t mean a business can’t succeed here. It simply means that, for a growing company with several locations and other opportunities, the return at Old Mill hasn’t been enough to justify the considerable time and attention the location requires.

That’s an important distinction.

The last several years have also brought challenges that earlier operators didn’t face to the same degree. Unfortunate legal disputes consumed a great deal of time, money and energy that otherwise could have gone into improving and growing the business.

Legal disputes involving a gelato cart, outdoor tables and alcohol sales consumed time, money and energy. (Photo/Dan Woog)

But there is another side to that story.

Thousands of residents, neighbors and visitors have supported preserving Old Mill. Many hundreds contributed financially to save it back in 2022.

And many more continue to show, through their ongoing donations, patronage and affection for the place, how much they want this neighborhood institution to remain part of the community.

It’s also worth remembering what this place has been for more than a century.

The property has operated commercially since 1919. For generations, it wasn’t simply a place to buy a sandwich.

Old Mill Grocery has stood — and served — for over 100 years.

It was opened as The Old Mill Store, and soon after became The Old Mill Grocery & Deli, always a place for groceries, prepared food, beverages, ice cream and the everyday things people needed. Stopping there was simply part of living in the neighborhood.

Some of that habit has been lost over the years. COVID changed routines. The neighborhood changed. Delivery services changed the way all of us buy food and household necessities.

Those are real challenges. But we don’t think they mean a business there is no longer viable.

We think the opportunity is to create an updated version of the neighborhood market that worked here for generations: great prepared food, groceries, beverages, convenience items and other permitted offerings, with reasons for people to stop in throughout the day and throughout the year.

Saturday morning, at Old Mill Grocery & Deli. 

There is also one very important difference between Old Mill and most commercial properties.

Its owner, Soundview Empowerment Alliance, is a nonprofit.

SEA was created by this community for 2 purposes: to preserve this historic neighborhood institution, and to create opportunities for young people with disabilities.

“Preserving History. Serving Good.”

SEA didn’t acquire 222 Hillspoint Road as a real estate investment. And our goal isn’t to maximize the financial return on the property.

We measure success differently.

If Old Mill remains a thriving neighborhood gathering place, and if it also creates opportunities for young people with disabilities to learn, work and grow, then we are accomplishing what the community created SEA to do.

That matters economically as well.

We can offer the next operator a modest, commercially reasonable rent designed to help the business succeed, rather than trying to extract the maximum possible return from the real estate.

So for us, the question isn’t really whether Old Mill can work.

It’s whether we can find the next right operator to create the 2026 version of the neighborhood market Westport has embraced for more than a century, one that respects what this place has been while adapting to the way people live today.

Based on the history of the property, what we’ve learned over the last several years, and the conversations we’re having with prospective operators, we believe we can.

We’re not out to recreate Elvira’s, or Kenny’s before it.

Our aim is to support the next generation of operators of the Old Mill Grocery & Deli, enabling it to remain the special place – the heart and hub – this community will continue to embrace for decades to come.

With gratitude,

Jim Hood and Ian Warburg
On behalf of Soundview Empowerment Alliance

(“06880” Opinion pages are open to all. Send submissions to 06880blog@gmail.com. To support this hyper-local blog with a tax-deductible contribution, please click here.)

New Life For Old Mill Market

For nearly 100 years, through name changes (Old Mill Grocery, Kenny’s, Elvira’s, Joey’s by the Shore) and changing trends (market, deli, ice cream shop), a small wooden building has served Old Mill neighbors, beachgoers, joggers, bicyclists, workers, and anyone else passing by.

It closed several months ago. By New Year’s, its fate looked bleak. No one was interested in reopening a business. The location — yards from the water, at the foot of Compo Hill — made it ripe for a residential buyer.

Like the restaurant-turned-home diagonally across the street, it looked like the small lot would soon be filled with a huge house.

But now it seems the Old Mill Grocery will live again.

Elvira’s, in 2016.

A few dozen neighbors — and other who grew up nearby, or remember the importance of the store, or just want to preserve a bit of old Westport — have united to help save the landmark.

And they’re doing it in a creative, innovative, very win-win way. Their priority is to save the café/market, then form a non-profit organization (the application is already underway). The goal is to break even, and serve the community.

And they’ll do it by offering training and employment for people with intellectual and developmental disabilities.

All they need is $1.3 million. But they need it by April 1.

The good news: They’re more than three-quarters of the way there.  Without any public announcement, $975,000 has already been pledged.

Balloons will soon be seen again at Elvira’s.

The core group that’s done the heavy lifting is a who’s who of Westport: Ian Warburg, Chris Tait, Jim Hood, Emily Ashken Zobl and Tommy Febbraio.

All except Hood grew up in Westport (but he and his family have lived by Compo Beach for 26 years). Tait is an RTM member, and lives nearby. All 5 are deeply committed to saving this local institution.

For months, owners Hal and Betsy Kravitz shopped the property to 30 or so potential business operators. None were interested.

Discouraged, the couple felt they had no choice but to sell to a residential developer — against their wishes. When Hood, Tait, Warburg and others heard the news, they swung into action.

The Kravitzes listened. They wanted to work with the neighborhood group. But they could not wait forever. They proposed a fair, reasonable — but relatively quick — deadline for funding.

The group got commitments. They began the 501(c)(3) process.

Febbraio — a 1970 Staples High School graduate who was raised near Longshore — was a key link. A successful restaurateur who knows his way around Fairfield County real estate, he offered advice about the business, as well as an introduction to Fairfield County Bank. They agreed to back the project.

The non-profit component is also crucial. Eighty percent of disabled people are unemployed, Hood says. The market can empower intellectually and physically disabled people, and others who are often marginalized, not just with employment and training, but by buying products from Sweet P Bakery and The Porch, which also hires and trains disabled workers.

That giving-back-to-the-community model offers a nod, in a way, to Kenny Montgomery, the store’s proprietor from the 1950s through early ’80s. When he died, longtime customers were stunned to learn he had bequeathed $500,000 to the Westport YMCA.

Before Elvira’s, the store at the foot of Compo Hill was owned by Ken Montgomery.

Now comes outreach to the broader community. The organizers are seeking commitments from others, to reach the funding goal. A GoFundMe page went live yesterday (click here).

The hope is for a soft launch this summer. As the business grows, they’ll respond to what customers want and need.

And what will the new store be called?

The final name has not been decided. But a strong favorite is Old Mill Grocery.

It’s simple. It’s historic — the name of the very first market there.

And its initials are perfect for this community effort, to help save a local institution from the developers’ claws.

That’s right: OMG.

(For more information, or to discuss a major contribution to the project, email Jim Hood and Ian Warburg: SaveElvirasMarket@gmail.com.)

The original market, in the 1920s. 

The End Of Elvira’s?

Rumors have long swirled that Elvira’s would be sold.

But year after year, the deli across from Old Mill has served beachgoers, bicyclists, joggers and walkers, alongside builders, masons, lawn guys and deliverymen who happened to be in the area.

Most importantly, it served as a neighborhood center. It was the market equivalent of “Cheers.” Families ran monthly tabs. Stacey and her family — the owners — looked out for all the kids, and displayed their school photos at the counter.

Elvira’s was closed for most of the winter though.

On Friday, there was sudden activity.

A group of people huddled inside. Outside, someone took photos.

This weekend, equipment — including the entire center section, which held chips, candy, bread and more — was removed.

Word on the street (Hillspoint Road and Compo Hill) is that the building and/or business was sold. However, no sale has yet been recorded at the town clerk’s office.

Is Elvira’s gone? Will new owners remodel — or tear it down, and build a private home?

All was quiet today. There was no one inside. Repeated phone calls brought only a busy signal.

Stay tuned. “06880” will keep you updated on this iconic, important Westport landmark.

Inside Elvira’s, earlier today. (Photo/Matt Murray)

You Know Things Are Serious When…

Public Works builds an enormous berm at Compo Beach…

…and Elvira’s battens down the hatches.

(Photos courtesy of Elvira’s Deli)