OMG! “A Night In Rome” At Old Mill Beach

In its 105 years, the small building at the foot of Compo Hill has seen many things.

It’s where neighbors gather for coffee, food and gossip; contractors and tradespeople pick up lunch; thirsty dogs and parched joggers get water.

Decades ago, it was the only place in the Old Mill neighborhood with a telephone. It’s survived more hurricanes and nor’easters than Al Roker.

But until last Thursday, never — in over a century — had the spot that is now Old Mill Grocery & Deli offered a sit-down, 4- course wine tasting and dinner.

Romanacci’s — which, since taking over last January, has breathed new life into the old place — hosted the historic event.

If the smiles and full stomachs of the 18 guests were any indication, it won’t be the last.

Repurposing the community table at Old Mill Grocery.

Graziano and Mauricio Ricco — owners of the very popular Romanacci’s restaurants in Westport, Norwalk and Trumbull — had talked about doing a wine event at their Railroad Place spot.

But the OMG location offered a chance to add another special element to a neighborhood gem.

With just a couple of flyers and social media posts, they quickly sold out the “Evening at Rome.”

The Riccis used their extensive food and wine contacts throughout the US and Europe to create and source the menu.

The wines came from all over Italy. They were provided — and described in detail — by Guliano Parolin, the Romanacci’s business partner who comes from 4 generations of winemakers in Italy’s Veneto region.

Guliano Parolin explains the wine.

All preparation was done on site. General manager Davis Johnson — who in just 10 months has already embedded OMG into the community — arrived early. Chef José Siguencia was already there, preparing the short ribs for Graziano to finish.

Braised, slow-cooked short ribs, with polenta and broccoletti, were a huge hit.

Cooking an elaborate meal in OMG’s cramped kitchen was “no small task,” Johnson notes.

The community table that fills OMG worked well for the dinner party. Guests — nearly all of whom walked over — ranged in age from 30s to 70s. For 3 hours, convesation flowed as easily as the wine.

“Everyone was so happy, so glad they came,” Johnson says. “They loved seeing this place all ‘dressed up.'”

Welcome to the dinner.

The Riccis are already preparing for the next dinner, on December 5. It will feature an entirely new menu, and different wines.

If that meal is a success (and it will be), Romanacci’s may plan one or two a month, in 2025.

Back in the day, Allen’s Clam House and Café de la Plage (later, Positano) offered dining options near Old Mill Beach.

No one expected Old Mill Grocery & Deli to fill that void. But — 105 years after it opened as a valuable local market — OMG is serving memorable meals to neighbors and friends.

(To learn more about upcoming dinners at Romanacci’s — or for information on how to have your own party there — email compobeach@romanacci.com.) 

Graziano and Mauricio Ricci, hosts of “An Evening in Rome.” (All photos/James Ricci)

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