Monthly Archives: August 2015

Ken Bernhard’s Missions Of Mercy

Ken Bernhard is a very busy man. But not too busy to help others in need.

The longtime Westport attorney and former state legislator is deeply committed to 2 important ventures.

One is Soles4Souls. Founded as a relief organization after philanthropists and shoe executives provided footwear to people impacted by the 2004 tsunami and Hurricane Katrina in 2005, the non-profit has distributed 22 million pairs of shoes in 127 countries (and all 50 US states).

A few years ago, Bernhard helped collect over 700 pairs in Westport. He’s organized another collection this month. Collection boxes are set up in Town Hall and the Senior Center. More than 150 pairs of shoes have already been donated this year. Breaking that 700 mark should be a walk in the park.

Part of the informational sign at Town Hall.

Part of the informational sign at Town Hall.

In October, Bernhard heads to Jordan. With an Arab-speaking colleague, he’ll purchase and deliver everything from toothpaste to school supplies — to Syrian refugees. He’s helped set up the 501(c)(3) Syria fund, under the umbrella of Helping Jordan Refugees and Mercy Corps.

“When I listened to the news about millions of refugees who have lost so much, and endured incalculable suffering through no fault of their own — ending up in bleak compounds with nothing but a will to survive — I thought I and our community should do something to help.”

If a busy guy like Ken Bernhard can find time to help these 2 excellent causes, the rest of us can pitch in too. Donations made payable to The Syria Fund should be sent to Ken Bernhard, 11 Woods Grove Rd., Westport, CT 06880; online, click on TheSyriaFund.

Ken Bernhard is collecting donations for supplies to help Syrian children.

Ken Bernhard is collecting donations for supplies to help Syrian children.

Cockenoe Stone Wall Challenge

Recent “06880” posts on Cockenoe Island — 1950s-era photos from Bill Whitbeck, and a south-side shot by JP Vellotti — have proven popular with readers. The island a mile off Compo Beach has a long, enduring hold on Westporters.

Bill sends along another image, from the summer of 1969. It’s of a friend (and fellow Big Top worker) named Leslie. Today, he hopes it will answer a question he’s had for decades.

Cockenoe stone wall -- Bill Whitbeck

Bill writes:

 If you can get past looking at Leslie you’ll see a stone wall, maybe 15 feet tall, the remains of some type of structure. There is mortar between the rocks, so it is definitely manmade.

At that time, very few people explored that side of the island. It was a difficult trek over a rocky shore strewn with large boulders. I remember hiking completely around the island a couple times, and it took a good part of the day.

I’ve always wondered about that wall. Who built it? How long ago? Was it part of a complete structure at one time? Is it still there?

If any “06880” readers know anything about this mystery wall, I’d be anxious to hear about it. If anyone ever hikes the south side, see if any part of the wall remains. If I remember correctly it was located near the middle of the southern shoreline, and was easily visible from the shore 40 years ago.

“06880” readers: That’s your late-summer assignment. Please click “Comments” if you can shed any light on the stone wall.

And Leslie, if you’re out there: What’s up with you these days?

Big Day For Adoptees

It flies under most people’s radars. But today marked a big day in Connecticut’s adoption community.

The state presented original birth certificates to 4 adult adoptees. They received them under a new law that requires the Department of Public Health to give adopted individuals age 18 or older whose adoptions were finalized on or after October 1, 1983 — or their adult children or grandchildren — uncertified copies of the adoptee’s original birth certificate on request.

It’s a key to an adoptee knowing his or her family medical history — and the truth about who they are.

John Suggs

John Suggs

The Westport connection — besides its importance to adoptees — is John Suggs. The RTM member works full time as a forensic genetic genealogist, specializing in helping adult adoptees, and birth parents and siblings, find each other.

The search he’s proudest of took 9 years to solve. It involved a birth mother of an abandoned 3-month old — who was now 91 years old.

Suggs found and interviewed an 85-year-old nephew of the missing birth mother. He said his aunt had “disappeared,” and after a lengthy search by her father and brother was presumed to have been murdered.

Suggs finally told the birth mother’s 91-year-old daughter that her mother had never abandoned her — she’d been taken from her. The daughter died a few months later.

Not all his searches are as dramatic. All, however, are unique — and important.

Suggs also volunteers as Westport’s representative on Access CT. The 501(c)(4) organization fights for the right of every adult adoptee born in the state to access his or her true original birth certificate.

This morning Access CT launched a social media fundraising campaign to help all Connecticut adult adoptees — not just those born after a certain date — gain access to their original birth certificates. Suggs says 43,000 Connecticut birth mothers and adult adoptees are still trying to find each other.

He’s doing all he can to help.

(For more information, click here. To contact Suggs directly, email jsuggs@family-orchard.com or call 203-273-2774.)

Birth certificate

 

Aaron Donovan’s Aquatic Adventure: Part 3

For the past 2 days, “06880” has reported on Aaron and Susan Donovan’s journey by 18-foot kayak/pedal boat/sailboat (called a Hobie Tandem Island), from Westport to New York City. In real life, Aaron — a 1994 Staples High School grad — serves as media liaison for the MTA.

Here is the final part of his story:

Aaron and Susan left the lighthouse by 9 a.m. They wanted to be out of the water by 12:45 p.m. After 5 years of kayaking in New York City waters, Aaron knew the importance of timing his trip around favorable currents.

With the East River in ebb mode — water heading south to the Battery — he knew he’d be in good shape, even without a wind.

Aaron and Susan Donovan's boat.

Aaron and Susan Donovan’s boat. It’s not very big.

The East River officially begins at Throg’s Neck. Once Aaron and Susan rounded it, the wind completely died. They switched to pedal mode.

It got hot. They drank tons of water. The only excitement in the upper East River is an austere prison barge parked off Hunt’s Point, and planes taking off from and landing at La Guardia.

Unlike Westport and Norwalk, which allow camping on islands near shore, the City of New York has no such facilities.

Aaron says there are islands off the South Bronx, and another at about East 96th Street, that could. One of those — North Brother Island — was the quarantine residence of Typhoid Mary, and the spot where the General Slocum beached while on fire in 1904, killing more than 1,000 people.

It would be bad to end up by mistake on nearby Rikers Island, of course. “Suffice it to say, we managed to find a location where we camped unmolested by the NYPD, Coast Guard or anyone else,” Aaron says.

The next morning he and Susan woke early. They caught the ebb tide down the East River, pedaling against a southerly wind.

Aaron and Susan Donovan approaching the 59th Street Bridge (feelin' groovy). The UN is in the distance.

Aaron and Susan Donovan approaching the 59th Street Bridge (feelin’ groovy). The UN is in the distance.

“In a weird way, it was just another day heading downtown like my morning commute,” he says. Except they were now on water, surrounded by tugboats, DEP sludge vessels, and the Navy training ship The Empire State. Gone were the recreational craft they’d seen in Long Island Sound for days.

Their destination was Governors Island. The former Coast Guard base just off the Battery has been repurposed as a delightful, quiet park. They enjoyed the afternoon, rested up for a morning of pedaling, and waited for the tide to shift.

The Battery, as seen from Governors Island.

The Battery, as seen from Governors Island.

Unlike the East River (and most waterways), which ebb and flow for 6 hours each, the Hudson ebbs for 8 and flows for 4. The Hudson would begin flowing at 3:50 p.m., providing a northbound current to complement the northbound wind. It was a perfect combination for the final leg, up to the 79th Street Boat Basin on the West Side.

Aaron’s office colleagues were on alert. They captured an image of the kayakers from the 30th floor of his downtown office.

Aaron and Susan, as seen by Aaron's MTA colleagues on the 30th floor. The Statue of Liberty is much larger.

Aaron and Susan, as seen by Aaron’s MTA colleagues on the 30th floor. The Statue of Liberty is much larger.

The winds were the strongest of the trip — gusty and shifty. So Aaron and Susan reefed the sail, untethered from the dock and headed out.

At 14th Street a gust caught them off guard, freaking them out. Their GPS showed they were roaring along at 9 knots over 30 seconds. They steered into the wind, pulled in what remained of the sail, and proceeded the rest of the way calmly and smoothly under pedal power.

When they pulled into the dock at 79th Street, they were relieved to be “home.” But they faced the daunting task of unloading the boat, and carrying it awkwardly up to a small kayak storage area. It was, Aaron notes, “the hardest part of the trip — physically.”

Too tired, and hauling too much gear to catch the West Side IRT, they tried to hail a cab. When none showed up immediately, Susan resorted to Uber.

The driver first refused to take their suggested route to their apartment near Yankee Stadium, saying taking directions en route could be dangerous. Then he dangerously distracted himself by adjusting his GPS the entire way.

Aaron and Susan compromised. But the driver missed an exit, then another turn. Getting from 79th Street to the Bronx might have been the toughest part of Aaron and Susan’s entire 5-day, 4-night amazing aquatic adventure.

Susan and Aaron Donovan. Don't try their adventure at home.

Susan and Aaron Donovan. Don’t try their adventure at home.

Smokin’ The Westport Blues

As a new member of the Westport Downtown Merchants Association 8 years ago, Bob LeRose wanted to make an impact on the area.

LeRose — the “Bobby” of Bobby Q’s restaurant — zeroed in on his 2 passions: barbecue and music.

The result — organized in conjunction with the DMA, 2nd selectman Shelly Kassen, the Westport Library and Levitt Pavilion — was the 1st-ever Blues, Views & BBQ Festival.

The name might be a bit clunky — what’s up with “views”? — but it quickly became a fixture of the downtown late-summer scene. Its attraction spread far beyond Westport — kind of like Festival Italiano — but like that Saugatuck celebration of yore, it’s still ours.

Westport's Emergency Medical Services staff participated in last yeear's hotly contested barbecue competition.

Westport’s Emergency Medical Services staff participated in last year’s hotly contested barbecue competition.

The 8th annual Blues, Views & BBQ Festival is set for Labor Day weekend (September 5 and 6) at the Levitt Pavilion and library and Imperial Avenue parking lots.

Once again, there’s kick-ass music (including Westport’s own Rock & Roll Hall of Famer Mark Naftalin); cooking demonstrations by top local chefs (including Da Pietro’s, Vespa and of course Bobby Q’s); rib- and pie-eating contests; bull riding; a drum circle; kids’ activities (from bounce houses to face painting), and the very popular Kansas City Barbeque Society competition.

The Levitt Pavilion is the perfect spot to hear great, get-up-and-move blues. (Photo/Lynn U. Miller)

The Levitt Pavilion is the perfect spot to hear great, get-up-and-move blues. (Photo/Lynn U. Miller)

A specialty food court is filled with wood-fired, grilled and roasted meats, and handcrafted beer.

New this year: a “People’s Choice Wing Contest.” Whole Foods is donating the goods.

I’ve heard a few snarky comments about the price (tickets range from $30 for Sunday bought in advance, to $85 for a two-day pass bought onsite). Children under 12 are free with a paying adult.

But the event sells out. And plenty of out-of-towners seem thrilled to be there.

This couple was VERY happy to be at the Blues, Views & BBQ Festival. (Photo/Lynn U. Miller)

This couple was VERY happy to be at the Blues, Views & BBQ Festival. (Photo/Lynn U. Miller)

More importantly, it’s a way for the DMA to continue their great job of keeping downtown attractive and lively; promoting commerce, culture and community, and bringing something unique and fun to the area.

The DMA uses its funds to improve downtown. They also support other organizations like the Westport Woman’s Club, Rotary, Levitt, Library and First Night.

The Blues, Views & BBQ Festival does not fall out of the sky. It costs money to produce. There are bands and police to hire, port-a-potties and fencing to pay for, signs and programs to produce, tents to erect, and clean-up to be done.

Oh, yeah: rental for the Levitt too. (Plus sound guys, lighting guys, and ribs for the bands.)

Vegans are welcome at the Blues, Views & BBQ Festival. But meat-lovers will have an especially great time.

Vegans are welcome at the Blues, Views & BBQ Festival. But meat-lovers will have an especially great time.

It’s all worth it. As Bobby LeRose says, “Thousands of people support this event each year. We get support from everyone. We see smiles all around. People are so happy with the music, food, activities and sense of community.

“You just don’t see this caliber of talent on one stage for the price we charge this close to home, in our beautiful and intimate Levitt Pavilion.”

Westport was recently named one of Connecticut’s 10 Most Boring Towns. Any of the thousands of happy folks who ever heard 2 days of fantastic music, scarfed down ribs, ridden a bull or done anything else fun at the Blues, Views & BBQ Festival would beg to differ.

(The 8th annual Blues, Views & BBQ Festival is set for Saturday, September 5 [11 a.m.-10 p.m.] and Sunday, September 6 [11 a.m.-9 p.m.] For ticket options, daily schedule, and entry forms for the eating and BBQ competitions, click on www.bluesviewsbbq.com.) 

BBQ_FEST_Logo

Aaron Donovan’s Aquatic Adventure: Part 2

Yesterday, “06880” reported on the 1st day and night of Aaron and Susan Donovan’s journey by 18-foot kayak/pedal boat/sailboat, from Westport to New York City. In real life, Aaron — a 1994 Staples High School grad — serves as media liaison for the MTA.

Here is Part 2 of his story:

Aaron and Susan were in luck. On day 2 — and for the next 2 days– the prevailing westerly wind shifted out of the east. There was no need to lengthen the trip by tacking. Winds were a perfect 10-15 knots.

Off Darien, they encountered a sailing school. Aaron remembered his own summers at Pequot Yacht Club. It was “one of the greatest, most fun and educational things I did as a kid.”

They had 3 islands to choose from off Greenwich. They threaded the boat between Island Beach and Great Captain Island, landing briefly on Calf Island. It’s a publicly accessible bird sanctuary, but overnight permits are available only in advance, after submitting a “wildlife studies curriculum,” along with proof of knowledge of how to perform CPR (!).

Aaron and Susan had not done that. They considered pitching their tent on the boat — after all, that is not camping on the island.

But they pushed on, and pedaled through breakwaters and up the Byram River. They landed at the dock behind Bartaco in Port Chester.

Pitching a tent behind Bartaco in Port Chester.

Pitching a tent behind Bartaco in Port Chester.

The staff was very helpful. Aaron and Susan’s 2 main concerns were food, and recharging their phones, computers and homemade GPS.

Aaron learned that his boat was actually parked in the last slip owned by Ebb Tide Marina. He offered a damp $50 bill, and they had a spot for the night.

Aaron and Susan wandered around downtown Port Chester and its waterfront park, had an excellent dinner, then pitched their tent on the boat.

Sleeping behind a bar was surprisingly quiet. Until 2 a.m., that is, when a crew of loud, laughing people returned to a power boat docked next door. A woman fell into the water. Her friends fished her out, and they left. “Thankfully, they did not hit us,” Aaron says.

Day 3 was the smoothest yet. Aaron and Susan evaded some treacherous rocks off Manursing Island, then made a beeline for Execution Rocks Lighthouse.

Surprisingly, they saw the towers of the Throgs Neck and Whitestone Bridges before spotting the lighthouse.

Execution Rocks Lighthouse, as seen from Aaron and Susan Donovan's boat.

Execution Rocks Lighthouse, as seen from Aaron and Susan Donovan’s boat.

When they got there, hosts Craig Morrison and Linell Lukesh — representatives of a nonprofit that bought the island and lighthouse for $1 — were sitting in lounge chairs in their yard (actually, a grassless, concrete and rocky slope).

Docking was tough. Except for a metal ladder going straight to the sea floor, the entire island is surrounded by riprap — large granite boulders that serve as a breakwater to prevent erosion.

Craig pointed to a newly installed open mooring. It took a bit of maneuvering and hard work, but finally they landed.

The lighthouse was the highlight of Aaron’s trip. From the top, they could see Port Jefferson, Stamford, New Rochelle and Manhattan. There were 2 regattas underway, and plenty of fishermen in shallow-draft motorboats.

The Manhattan skyline, as seen from the top of the lighthouse.

The Manhattan skyline, as seen from the top of the lighthouse.

Craig and Linell barbecued, then Aaron and Susan retired to their room.

The lighthouse has 2 guest rooms, each with 2 cots. The charge is $300 per room — tax-deductible, as a donation to the lighthouse preservation fund. But they’re open on Saturday nights only.

If you want to get there without kayaking/pedaling/sailing from Westport, take the Port Washington Water Taxi. It’s a 15-minute ride to the island.

(Tomorrow: Days 4-5)

Susan and Aaron Donovan, standing at the top of Execution Rocks Lighthouse.

Susan and Aaron Donovan, standing at the top of Execution Rocks Lighthouse.

Buell Neidlinger: A Man And His Music

“06880” truly is “where Westport meets the world.” Approximately 1/3 of our readers are outside Fairfield County — many of them far, far away. Some have not lived here for decades.

Each has his or her own reasons for still feeling connected to this place. Each has been on an interesting journey. But we’d have to scour the earth to find a more intriguing Westport — and post-Westport — story than Buell Neidlinger’s.

Born in 1936, he was a Westporter through 1955. Buell remembers 3 distinct eras of growing up.

Prior to World War II, many Fairfield County families lived in homes their ancestors built — before the Revolutionary War.

During wartime, most fathers headed overseas. Rationing limited Buell’s mother to half a tank at Walt’s Gas Station — and it had to last a week. Still, she drove to Compo Beach to serve as an air raid warden.

Air raid instructions

Climbing rickety steps to a tiny room atop the old Cedar Point Yacht Club building, she sat in the cold for 3-hour shifts, scanning east through powerful binoculars for submarines and enemy planes coming in over the Sound. None ever did.

Sometimes she brought Buell and his brother Roger to play outside. Compo Beach was always deserted.

At 8 years old, in a summer program at the old Staples High School on Riverside Avenue (now Saugatuck Elementary School), Buell was taught the trumpet by Staples’ legendary music director John Ohanian.

Ohanian later gave Buell a cello solo. The song was “O Holy Night”; it was Christmas Eve, at Saugatuck Congregational Church. Buell was 11 years old.

When “the boys” came home and rationing ended, the beach was packed. Buell calls this “the boozy after-the-war time of new cul-de-sacs and rampaging development.” Farms and old homes began to disappear; restaurants like the Clam Box and Manero’s sprang up. It was the beginning of “the new Westport.”

When the Neidlingers lived on Keyser Road, he was often sent to Montgomery’s store on the corner of  South Compo and Green’s Farms Road (where I-95 is now). On that short walk he’d pass the homes of New York Philharmonic concertmaster John Corigliano, practicing for his gig; Metropolitan Opera basso Alexander Kipnis, warming up, and legendary pianist Marjorie Stokes.

Alexander Kipnis in the Metropolitan Opera's production of

Alexander Kipnis in the Metropolitan Opera’s production of “Parsifal.”

The 20-minute round trip walk took 2 hours — and it wasn’t spent just listening to musicians. Syndicated humorist Parke Cummings lived kitty-corner from Montgomery’s, and taught Buell a lot about timing the punch line.

In the other direction — toward the Post Road — world-class pianist Ruth Steinkraus lived with her family in a beautiful mansion. A few doors away were cellists Lieff and Marie Romaet Rosanoff. Marie’s sound floated out the window — unless Gault started crushing gravel, in which case she’d slam it shut.

Also on Compo: Broadway songwriter Jerry Livingston, who’d just had a huge radio hit with the novelty song “Mairzy Doats.”

John Ohanian gave Buell Neidlinger his start in music.

John Ohanian gave Buell Neidlinger his start in music.

Bobby Livingston and Buell were in Ohanian’s band class together. They hung out in the back yard, while Bobby’s dad searched for another hit on his piano.

“The free pop harmony lessons I received in that yard served me well all my professional life,” Buell says.

He learned from all those South Compo neighbors — and the Westport School of Music — that with hard work and passion, a career in music was possible.

After high school, Buell headed to Yale. By then he’d moved from trumpet and cello to bass. In 1956 — age 20 — he left for New York. In the 1950s and ’60s, he did it all: clubs, Broadway shows, jingles, touring and recording with singers and bands. He played Carnegie Hall with Leopold Stokowski’s American Symphony Orchestra — and worked with Steve Lawrence and Eydie Gorme when they opened for the Beatles at the Paramount Theater. (Paul McCartney gave him a bass.)

Buell joined the Boston Symphony in 1967. Four years later — lured by an offer to become a professor at the brand new California Institute of the Arts — he headed west. In Los Angeles Buell performed on scores for over 600 movies, including “Shawshank Redemption,” “Edward Scissorhands” and “Yentl.”

He was principal bass of the Warner Brothers studio orchestra for 27 years. He often played with Chris Hanulik — whose father John taught with Ohanian at Staples for many years.

Buell’s talent is matched only by his versatility. He’s played or performed with — among many others — Billie Holliday, Tony Bennett, Frank Sinatra, Barbra Streisand, Frank Zappa, Ringo Starr, the Beach Boys, Roy Orbison, T Bone Burnett, Elvis Costello and Earth, Wind & Fire.

Buell Neidlinger (center), flanked by Roy Orbison and T Bone Burnett.

Buell Neidlinger (center), flanked by Roy Orbison and T Bone Burnett.

Oh, yeah. There’s one more “Westport meets the world” piece to Buell Neidlinger’s story. When he was with the Boston Symphony, he was on the selection committee to choose a new French horn player. He proudly voted for the winner: David Ohanian.

Yes, the son of the man who’d given him his 1st trumpet lessons many years before — the start of his lifelong profession.

(Hat tip: Fred Cantor)

Buell Neidlinger today.

Buell Neidlinger today.

Picture Wendy Nylen’s Gallery

For 20 years, Picture This owner Wendy Nylen enjoyed a good relationship with her landlord.

Her art gallery and custom framing shop was in Village Center, aka “the strip mall with Dunkin’ Donuts opposite Fresh Market.”

Six years ago, her lease ran out. Since then, she rented on a month-to-month basis.

Last year, Equity One bought the shopping center. They offered Wendy a new lease — almost exactly double what she’d been paying. They would not negotiate.

Wendy moved out (to the former Great Cakes, just down the road). She paid Equity One the rent and property taxes, up to her move date.

Picture This in its new location, the former Great Cakes. (Photo/Billy Scalzi)

Picture This in its new location, the former Great Cakes. (Photo/Billy Scalzi)

The owners now claim she owes $576.73, for some maintenance charges — not damage to the space — and for removing the sign. Wendy says that neither were her responsibility while Kowalsky owned the building.

She told Equity One exactly that, and noted that she had no lease with them.

Wendy was rewarded with a letter from a law firm threatening to sue her business — and “enter litigation against the principals on a personal basis should the corporate judgment appear uncollectible.”

“They may be counting on the fact that hiring a lawyer to defend myself would cost me more than the amount they claim,” Wendy notes. “I find this bullying and despicable. What do you think?”

Hey, don’t ask me. Ask the readers of “06880.” I’m sure they’ve got opinions!

Anyone For Pickleball?

Very quietly — without any fanfare or even publicity — Westport added 2 pickleball courts right next to the Compo Beach skate park.

They’re in a previously unused area of the parking lot. Yesterday, they got plenty of action.

Pickleball

Meanwhile, around the corner by the cannons, life was a little slower:

Comp Beach - August 16, 2015 - 2

Compo Beach - August 16, 2015

 

Aaron Donovan’s Aquatic Adventure

As media liaison for the MTA, Aaron Donovan is intimately familiar with New York’s trains, subways, buses, tunnels and bridges.

Its waterways — not so much.

Aaron Donovan

Aaron Donovan

But the 1994 Staples grad’s parents needed their garage space back. They no longer had room for the 18-foot hybrid vessel — part kayak, part pedal boat, part sailboat — that Aaron and his wife Susan bought from the Boat Locker, and had been storing there.

Aaron knew that New York City’s Parks Department has a small kayak storage area on West 79th Street. But he knew better than most that trailering the vessel on I-95 and into the city was no easy task.

So Aaron and Susan decided to sail. They spent the winter finding locations where they could stay during the 5-day, 4-night August adventure.

Aaron researched sunrises and sunsets, high and low tides, and ebb and flow currents. He could not, however, predict the wind.

After multiple stops at EMS, REI and Stop & Shop, the couple was ready. Launch date was Wednesday, August 6.

Susan Donovan in the 18-foot craft. Smaller than it sounds, no?

Susan Donovan in the 18-foot craft. Smaller than it sounds, no?

The house where Aaron grew up abuts the tidal estuary of Sasco Creek. He’d seen a few kayakers and canoeists on it, but it was certainly an underutilized resource.

Aaron and Susan planned to wait till shortly after high tide, when the current headed into the Sound. But — trips never go according to plan — they left a bit behind schedule, at 2:30 p.m. The current was against them, the water level low.

They walked the boat over sand, mud and gravel in waist-deep water. It was an inauspicious start.

Aaron and Susan Donovan leave Beachside, rounding Frost Point.

Aaron and Susan Donovan leave Beachside, rounding Frost Point.

They could not set up the mast until they’d cleared the bridge that carries Beachside Avenue into Pequot Avenue over Sasco Creek at Southport Beach. In tall sea grass they let out the sails, shoved off into waist-high waves of the incoming tide, unfurled the sails, and were off into a headwind.

Tacking a few times, they cleared Frost Point and Sherwood Point, en route to their 1st campsite in the Norwalk Islands. The winds shifted, the waves diminished and they arrived at 6 p.m. They beached the boat in tall sea grases, and hoped it would still be afloat — not way up a hill — at low tide.

For $35, Norwalk allows overnight camping on 2 of its dozen beautiful, sparsely or uninhabited island a couple of miles offshore. Aaron and Susan chose Shea Island — not Westport’s Cockenoe ($20) — because Shea offers rudimentary restrooms.

Aaron — whose words I am using throughout this report — calls the camping experience “amazing. So close to civilization, you can see the beautiful waterfront estates, shore lights and beaches, and hear occasional train horns and powerboat engines.

“But mostly you feel utterly surrounded by nature. As night falls, as the wind diminishes and the last rays of the sun taper off in pink and orange hues toward the west, you hear the calls of seagulls, and waves gently lapping on the rocky shorelines. It is like a hidden Eden, just 2 miles offshore.”

The view from Shea Island.

The view from Shea Island.

From their campsite atop a bluff, they had great views of the Sound. Long Island seemed close. Manhattan’s towers beckoned in the distance.

They were alone on the isle — though there are 16 campsites — except for a deer and 2 babies, who wandered over from Sheffield Island on a sandbar at low tide. Spooked, they (the deer) left.

After Susan made breakfast (eggs and beans), they loaded up their non-beached boat, and were off again.

(Next: Days 2-3)

Aaron and Susan Donovan's route, from Green's Farms to New York.

Aaron and Susan Donovan’s route, from Green’s Farms to New York.

(For an interactive view of the map above, click here.)