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Restaurant Curbside Service: The New Normal

Last week — aka “several lifetimes ago” — I got a press release from Pearl at Longshore. The restaurant had a new executive chef. That week, he’d introduce a new seasonal menu.

I don’t run press releases. But I knew that Pearl had recently renovated its interior and made other changes.

That made for a perfect “06880” story: the challenges facing a restaurant with a very good reputation, in a location that for many Westporters is out of sight most of the year.

I made plans to chat with owners Marc and Lois Backon on Saturday. By then — just a few days later — life had changed dramatically. But the Westport couple were upbeat about the future. Pearl was still poised to forge ahead. I got ready to write.

Pearl at Longshore’s dining room is now closed.

Two days after that, things changed even more dramatically.

With restaurants restricted to curbside takeout and delivery only, Pearl joined dozens of other Westport establishments in a new world order. I figured my story was as old as last week’s news.

Yesterday morning, a very generous reader offered to use her credit card for dinner for me at — what a coincidence! — Pearl.

It was an offer too good to pass up. I gratefully accepted.

I checked out the menu online. At 5 p.m., I called it in: thyme-roasted salmon, with a side of crispy brussels sprouts. They said it would be ready at 5:30.

I preferred 6:15. They were happy to accommodate that. I should just call when I got there.

At 6:15 sharp, I pulled into the nearly empty lot. I called.

Moments later, David Donnelly — one of the managers — opened the door. He came out. Wearing gloves, and keeping his distance, he set the bag down. (Technically, I guess that makes it “step-side,” not curbside.)

I drove home. I enjoyed the very tasty (and healthful) salmon and sprouts.

Salmon with baby beets and top, shaved asparagus, Mt. Shasta wild rice and dill champagne sauce; brussels sprouts with crispy chickpeas, tzatziki and smoked paprika.

Would I have enjoyed it much more inside, sharing one of Pearl’s new booths with friends, or outside in one of the comfy chairs they installed a couple of weeks ago?

Absolutely.

But that’s not a choice now. And if enough Westporters take advantage of takeout dining, there’s a much better chance that Pearl — and other restaurants all around town — will be here this summer, to welcome us back in.

(For a list of restaurants and markets serving curbside meals, and/or delivering, click here.)

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